“If the edges of the leaves become brown or curl up, it is generally a cry of humidity for help,” according to Mutalik. “We keep plants in love with humidity such as the calatheas, the ferns and the marantas grouped on pebble trays and direct a humidifier nearby.” (Our favorite tested wired is above.) He says that a split bathroom is also ideal for tropical plants that like high humidity. “It doesn’t need to be fanciful,” adds Anderson.
Heat
We have already covered that you should monitor the heat near your windows to make sure it does not fall below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. But ambient air temperatures can also affect your indoor plants. “If you feel cold, your plants are likely so,” says Hancock. “And they can’t put a sweater.”
You will also want to pay attention to drafts. “If you have an indoor plant near a heating vent where it is exposed to air which is significantly hotter or cooler than the temperature of the ambient air, it can stress your plant, which means that the yellow leaves prematurely,” explains Hancock.
The drafts can be caused by external doors and windows. Connolly underlines that heating and radiators can also be harmful. The plants “like the temperature to remain consistent and not swinging back and forth between hot and cold.”
Consciousness is essential with regard to heat and air flow. “We keep everything that is leafy or tropical at least 2 feet of the radiators and we ensure that the windows are well isolated,” explains Mutalik.
Pests
If you bring your plants inside the outside, the experts recommend putting them in quarantine for a period of time to make sure that they do not organize pests that could affect your other indoor plants. (Because let’s be real – the Nobody just has A Houseplant.) “Catch them early saves a lot of sorrow,” explains Anderson.
Mutalik and the rest of the corner of the interior plant quaranting their plants for two weeks. Check under each sheet for mites, licks or flies. If you meet parasites, there are several ways to contact those that can vary depending on preferences and plant species. Wheat deletes them manually if possible and wipes them with a cloth or a light vinegar solution before moving on to other more aggressive measures such as horticultural oils or soaps if necessary. (Editor Kat Merck uses insecticide soap above on its indoor plants and hydroponic gardens.)
Connolly wipes the plants with a cloth then rinses them in the sink. And Mutalik says that Neem oil or Castile soap can do wonders if you catch pests early; Wipe the leaves, especially wider leaves every two weeks to prevent infection.
While many winter pests are reaching a walk inside, Hancock stresses that dry and hot conditions (like those found in heated houses in winter) are the ideal environment for mites.
“Washing regularly plant leaves can help dislodge mites and help keep the population low. If you just see mites and do not want to spray, plan to invest in beneficial mites. Beneficiary mites will eat mites and do not injure your plant, ”he says.
Fertilizer
Photography: Kat Merck
The fertilizer is always a bit confusing, and it can be even more confusing in winter. “I would say, don’t even get into fertilizing your household factory if you are using over -the -counter potting soil.” Most of these soils have slow liberation fertilizers that are sufficient for plant growth, “said wheat.
If you have an older plant with tired soil or a “particularly heavy feeder”, you can opt for a slow or controlled liberation fertilizer – or simply repot it with fresh soil. (But be aware that winter is generally not the best time to fill a plant, and you may want to wait for the growth season.)
